Going Full Circle after 2 Months

The return trip to Kapoeta from Nepal brought us full circle, both literally and figuratively. Unexpected events (namely, the bank in Juba having no money to dispense) meant that rather than doing our grocery shopping in Nairobi, we instead had to go to Kampala (Uganda) and return to Kapoeta via Juba—the route that we had taken when we first arrived in Africa two months ago.

Though our stay in Nairobi was briefer than expected, there happened to be a shopping mall right across the street from our hotel, so we had an opportunity to explore what they had to offer. I think it is fair to say that, with the exception of logic puzzle books, everything you could want is available in Nairobi, as long as you are willing to pay for it. From Philadelphia cream cheese and pine nuts to muzungu cream (sunscreen) and meat thermometers, Nairobi has many of the luxury items that Kampala lacks. But they don’t come cheap! As an example, a pop-can-size tub of Green & Blacks Cocoa (likely $6 max in Whole Foods) was on sale for $70!!! Can you imagine?! Madness!! Knowing that it would be 4 or 5 days before getting to a fridge in Kapoeta, we passed up the opportunity to buy the cream cheese, but we did indulge ourselves at a bookstore (Francis opting for books on home wiring while I went for one put out by the Kenyan Horticulture Society on Gardening in East Africa and a couple local-interest novels).

Arriving in the Entebbe (Kampala, Uganda) airport, I was amazed at what a difference 2 months had made. Rather than feeling paranoid that I’d get robbed (Kampala isn’t unsafe, the airport is just busy when a plane arrives) or painstakingly avoiding eye contact with people in uniform, I felt much more at ease and much less overwhelmed. Driving into town, it was nice to recognize landmarks, make informed choices about where we might have dinner, know where to head to begin my shopping. Because I knew what to expect, it was much easier to enjoy myself. I was amused to find Christmas music blasting through the loudspeakers at each of the supermarkets and a wide variety of Christmas cards to choose from (oddly, they were certainly straight from the US, all showing images of snow-covered rooftops, candycanes, and large-steepled churches).

Laden with 60kilos of groceries and a cooler full of dairy products, we headed for the airport to fly to Juba. There was a bit of drama trying to get our cooler on the plane, but after paying to have it shrink-wrapped, we were pleased to find that it made it in one piece to Juba and that the Juba luggage inspectors at the other end let it into the country without a hitch. I savored the hot shower in Juba before getting into another tiny 10-seater UN airplane to fly to Kapoeta (this particular plane made a few more scary creaky noises than the first plane we took on November 12th).

Landing in Kapoeta, again, it felt almost routine. I knew that there would be a huge crowd to greet us, that the police would require us to open up our bags right there on the airfield (it isn’t like there is a building). I knew that when we got to the safari camp, that there would be ants (thankfully, fewer than before), no hot water, and decent-tasting though monotonous food. Despite still living out of a suitcase and having very little of our own things at hand, there are times when Kapoeta does feel like it is our home. Thus, I’m sure that with time, the arrival of furniture, and once I’ve made some friends, there will indeed be a time when I’ll feel like a resident and not just a long-term visitor.

As an aside, I know I’ve been pretty Negative Nancy recently about the delay of our personal effects and the furniture/appliances that we bought in Kampala. There’s been more than once that I’ve contemplated bailing from this adventure. But a very understanding and loving husband, and some happy events have made even this state of dusty, uncomfortable limbo bearable.
Happiness #1: Mail. I sort of remember the overwhelming joy I felt as a child when I would get something in the mail—perhaps a birthday card or a letter from my penpal or a magazine. The typical mail of adulthood—unsolicited catalogs and bills—have a way, though, of diluting the postal experience. Sudan has helped me regain the joy that is stamped mail. While in Kampala, one of Francis’ colleagues gave us our first batch of mail. Magazines, cards, and even the occasional bill, were like little Christmas packages—it was all I could do to resist the urge to stay up all night reading. However, if it takes 2 months to accumulate that amount, I know that I need to pace myself. The care-packages sent by our families and out-of-the-blue emails and messages from others further lift our spirits. Thank you all!
Happiness #2: Work. Though I am still looking for a job in the local community, I am so happy to have been asked by former colleagues to help recruit people to review proposals for science funding. Though I’ve been working A LOT for Francis, it has all been as an unofficial volunteer and mostly because I’d go crazy if I just sat around all day and read. It is psychologically very good for me to be accountable to someone/something outside my household, and it makes me feel like I’m participating in the outside world, even if only over an (unreliable) internet connection.